Montevideo Information
The nation's capital, Montevideo, is one of South America's more attractive capitals, even if its once grand colonial architecture could use a little sprucing up. Home to more than a third of the country's 3.3 million people, it's a city of beaches, plazas, restaurants, cafes, nightclubs and casinos. The Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) and the newer downtown area hold the most interest for visitors, but keep in mind that you should explore the Ciudad Vieja during daylight hours only. We suggest two nights to visit both the old and new parts of town.
A pleasant way to start your tour is to see the entire city from the 11th-story terrace of the Palacio Municipal, located on the main street, Avenida 18 de Julio. Or you can take in the view from the old Spanish fort. Afterward, go to Ordonez Park to see the rose garden (more than 850 varieties) and La Carreta (a covered-wagon monument - there's a similar one for stagecoaches in El Prado Park). Other sights include the Palacio Taranco (18th-century European-style mansion), the Casa Garibaldi (once the home of Italian freedom fighter Giuseppe Garibaldi) and the Solis Theater (one of the best theaters in South America, it was undergoing renovations last time we were in town). If you need to take a break for a coffee or beer, both Plaza Entrevero and Plaza Constitucion have pleasant outdoor cafes.
But if it's lunchtime, head for the Mercado del Puerto in the Ciudad Vieja. Inside this ornate building (it was once a train station), market stalls have been converted into parrillas (grills) and a few bars. Grill after enormous grill is chockablock with various meats. If a space opens up on the grill, another side of ribs is immediately thrown on to rectify the situation. Many of the establishments have proper tables, but we highly recommend sitting on a stool facing the grill for an up-close view of the action.
Also worth seeing are the Plaza Independencia, Museo Torres Garcia (works by Uruguayan artist Joaquin Torres Garcia), National Museum of Fine Arts (Parque Rodo), Museum of Natural History, the Legislative Palace (mosaic floors and stained-glass windows) and the beaches (Ramirez, Malvin or Pocitos). There's also an interesting gaucho museum in the same building where the Banco de la Republica has a small money museum. Make a point of stopping in, if only to see the building itself - the interior is marvelous. The Rambla, the avenue running along the beach, is good for walking.
Montevideo has several interesting outdoor markets, including the Feria de Villa Biarritz (open on Saturday) and the flea-markety Feria de Tristan Narvaja (Sunday morning). The artisans market, located on San Jose Street, is open every day but Sunday. If time is available, drive around the suburbs and the harbor to see ships coming in (sunset from the pier is beautiful). Festivals include a modest version of Carnival and a rodeo during Easter.
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